Cool Camping Review 2011:

The further west one ventures into Herefordshire the more it seems like a different country all its own, lost in some distant time; the sort of place you could expect to turn a corner and bump into a buxom milkmaid shouldering a rustic yoke. Its no surprise then, when the friendly owners at Penlan inform us that the 'modern' part of their stone and wooden farmhouse dates from the late 1600's (the rest of it being a good 100 years older).

A mere half mile from the Welsh border and seemingly hundreds of miles from anywhere any one might call home, Penlan Farm is a 50 acre small holding where Peter and Margaret run a flock of sheep and herd of cattle, organically, and where an apple orchard blossoms majestically each spring. Whether the livestock appreciate the views or not is a matter for speculation. Visistors to the site, however, can hardly fail to do so. To the far right are the iconic Brecon Beacons; while next to them lurk the hulking Black Mountains, untamed by the gentler Herefordshire hills to the east. Drop down a field or too (the owners encourage their guests to go for a wander) and look to the left and there are the Malverns. On a clear day you can even pick out the village of Birdlip on the edge of the Cotswolds, some 60 miles away.

The campsite here first started taking customers in the 1960s, but was closed a decade later when the farm became the property of The National Trust (which also owns the equisite Cwmmau Farm a few fields away and well worth a stroll). Peter and Margaret - both born and bred in the area - decided in 1997 to reopen the site (which does not belong to the NT) and have been sharing its extraordinary peace and quiet with campers ever since. The camping area is a small, gently sloping cutlass-shaped swathe of lovingly tended greensward. The caravan pitches - eight of which are seasonal - are at the back, while campers get the pick of the front row seats and enjoy the additional advantage of the shelter afforded by a low beech hedge.

The lane that runs directly behind the site is, happily. almost exclusively the domain of infrequent tractors. Its a pity that telegraph poles cross the the field below, but in summer it does mean that the wires between them are lined with swallows and pied wagtails. Look higher up and you might be lucky enough to catch a red kite flying high riding the the thermals while, closer to hand, there are various species of tit that nest in the eight boxes dotted around the site. As eveniing draws on, and just as the streets of Hereford light up in the valley below, the horseshoe bats living in the farms ancient barns take flight. Finally, as night falls, the woods behind the campsite are haunted by the calls of tawny owls. For those who enjoy looking down once in a while, the good news is that not all the local wildlife is airborne: a pond on the farm is home to great crested newts.

There are twelve touring pitches (of which ten have hookups) and twelve more for tents. An unobtrusive hut houses immaculately clean and modern loos (1M, 2W) and 2 electric showers (1M, 1W). While there are no facilties specifically geared to the needs of disabled people, there are at least no steps on the site to negotiate. A giant jenga set awaits children of all ages. Ice packs can be frozen in the freezer, part of the fridge/freezer in the barn, where there are also tables piled with leaflets on local attractions. The nearest shop is a Londis at Whitney (3 miles), though Kington (4 miles) boasts a co-op and a spa. There are no campsite fires allowed, but the owners do have BBQ's on stands which can be borrowed free of charge (don't forget to bring your charcoal, though).

Hay on Wye, with its cafes, independent shops, whole host of second-hand bookshops, and world famous literary festival is just 7 miles away (if you're planning to camp at Penlan during the festival, do book up well in advance) and well worth a day trip or two. The Black and White Villages of Herefordshire are on the doorstep, and the official 40 mile trail around them makes for an excellent days cycle. At Paddles and Peddles in Hay on Wye, you can hire a kayak or Canadian canoe and have an adventure along the River Wye (and best of all, they'll pick you up from wherever you end up), or you can pick up a bicycle and hit the roads. There are also no fewer than 5 pony trekking pony companies in the area.

Open Easter till end Oct. Advanced booking only.

A tranquil piecce of lovely borderland in Britains own twilight zone

Peter and Margaret look forward to meeting you at Penlan